矯正床之5—保養與問題

Maintenance & Trouble-Shooting section 6

Leander tables are designed to provide exceptionally long life and dependability. However, like any mechanical device they occasionally require minor service to keep them in peak operating condition. This section will help you maintain the table and identify minor irregularities and correct them before they become major disruptions in your use of the table.
Upholstery
To clean the vinyl on your Leander table use warm, soapy water or a specially blended vinyl cleaner such as Keyston Vinyl Cleaner. DO NOT use any alcohol based cleaners or abrasives. DO NOT use Armor-All, or other cleaners formulated for automotive vinyls.
The cloth surfaces are Scotchguarded and may be cleaned with warm, soapy water or a home fabric cleaner.

To clean leather upholstery:

1. Use lukewarm water, pure mild soap (Ivory), and a soft cloth or sponge.
2. Apply damp (not wet) cloth in circular movements. Repeat application when necessary using only clean water.

3. Wipe dry with soft, clean cloth.
Never use detergents or any product not specifically marked to be used on leather. Do not treat the leather with saddle soap or other oils or waxes .. Shoe leather processes should not be used on upholstery leather.

Paint

When a table is built with a color coordinated base, the protective cover over the base structure is painted to the customer’s choice of color. The paint is comparable to that used on automobiles. Clean it like you would a car. Use warm, soapy water and clean water .. Some of the hidden metal parts in the table are coated with a dull primer and do not need to be cleaned.

Chrome

Most of the visible metal of a Leander table is plated with nickel or chrome. To clean these plated surfaces use any commercial chrome cleaner/polish. Keep these solutions off the other surfaces of the table.

Mechloks

Built into it the 900 series table are two to three mechanical locking devices called Mechloks. They can be found at the ankle cushion, lateral flexion lock, and the sliding push-rod if the table is so equipped. These devices incorporate a simple lock design capable of resisting a great amount of force, yet they may be set or released with a minimum of effort. These attributes allow the physician great flexibility.
Infrequently, a mechlok may seem to “slip” or not lock where you may desire. If this happens, a test must be performed to determine the source of the problem. This procedure is important in order to solve the problem in the quickest, most efficient manner. This test will determine whether the problem lies with the mechlok or the cable controlling it.

Mechlok Test

If the problem seems to be that the device doesn’t unlock see Cable Adjustment.

  Figure 22 Mechlok and cable detail.

I. Slide the swaged end of the cable out of the release lever in the mechlok. (figure 22)

2. Apply weight or force to the mechlok with the cable detached. Also, try manually locking and unlocking the mechlok in different positions by squeezing the release lever against the corresponding part of the mechlok and moving the appropriate table section. Does it hold?
3. If the mechlok fails step 2 it should be replaced. See Mechlok Replacement.
4. If the mechlok passes step 2 the problem lies in the cable. See Cable Adjustment

5. If the mechlok passes step 2 and the problem persists following Cable Adjustment. try again to adjust the cable. If the problem continues, see Cable Replacement.

Cable Adjustment

Perform cable adjustment with the cable and mechlok assembled. Adjusting nuts can be found at the cable ends adjacent to the control for the mechlok. You will need a 3/8 inch and a 7 / 16 inch open end wrench and a pair of pliers.

I . While holding the adjusting nut with the 3/8 wrench, loosen the jam nut with the 7/ I 6 wrench. (figure 23)

2. Hold the cable jacket firmly with the pliers and turn the adjusting nut clockwise or counter wise until it breaks loose from the cable.

  Figure 23  Cable adjustment detail.

3. Turn the adjusting nut clockwise or counter-wise until the swaged end of the cable just touches the inside of the release lever on the mechlok. (figures 23 & 24)
4. When the swaged end of the cable is in the correct position, hold the adjusting nut with the 3/8 wrench and tighten the jam nut with the 7/16 wrench.

  Figure 24 Cable replacement.

Cable Replacement

To replace a cable you will need a pair of needle nose pliers.

I. Slide the swaged end of the cable out of the release lever at the mechlok.(figure 22)

2. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the “C” clips from each end of the cable. There will be one at the mechlok (inside the cable bracket) and one at the adjusting end. (figure 24)
3. Remove the old cable and replace it with a new one. Perform steps 3 & 4 of Cable Adjustment.

Hechlok Replacement

To replace a mechlock you will need a pair of needle nose pliers, you may also  need a 9/ 16 wrench (found inside the cover door) and a 3/ 16 inch allen wrench.

I. Slide the swaged end of the cable out of the recessed release lever in the mechlok. {figure 22)

2. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the “C” clip from the mechlok end of the cable (inside the cable bracket). (figure 24)
3. Replace the old mechlok with the new one and reverse the preceeding steps. Perform Cable Adjustment.

Drops

Drop sections are almost completely maintenance-free. Occasionally, you may find that one of the tension knobs seems difficult or “stiff” to turn. Should this happen, lubricate the threads on the knob.

Tension Knob Lubrication

To lubricate a tension knob stud, use the anti-seize provided with your table. Be very careful not to get the anti-seize on anything as it is difficult to remove.

I. Completely remove the problem tension knob from the table.

2. Apply several droplets of anti-seize from the end of the threaded stud up about 1/2″ toward the knob. (figure 25)
3. Thread the knob back into the drop.
4. If the problem persists the drop may need attention from an authorized service person. Contact the factory.

  figure 25 Tension knob lubrication.

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